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A day at a trend forecasting agency: Peclers Paris unveils what goes on behind the scenes

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A day at a trend forecasting agency: Peclers Paris unveils what goes on behind the scenes

Elisabeth Prat has been working as a forecaster at trend consulting agency Peclers Paris for the last 37 years. As the person responsible for trend forecasting, today she is at the core of the developments in a profession where the order of the day has been disrupted by the Covid-crisis.

To help predict what the future trends will look like, forecasting agencies such as Nelly Rodi or Peclers Paris use the time spirit as a guide. Aside from catwalk shows and professional fairs, informal discussions, expositions and travels are at the core of the reflection process. Today, health measures implemented to combat the pandemic affect the majority of sectors and the fashion industry hasn’t been left unscathed. Catwalk presentations have taken place online, expositions have been canceled in many cases, and the same applies to the industry’s fairs. How then does a style agency go about forecasting trends based on signs from society? What are the changes it implements in its way of working? Peclers Paris’ Elizabeth Prat has agreed to provide FashionUnited with some answers.

“This morning, we had a meeting about four major ideas for summer 2023,” says Prat. She continues: “We construct these ideas based on everyone’s contribution. Every person that works at our agency, from every level of the organization, presents some very personal ideas. This is a crucial moment.” This democratic way of working is not new, Peclers Paris pursues what was already in place, with the difference being that it now takes place online. Peclers Paris employees now carry out 90 percent of their work at home.

According to Prat, the meetings are always consistent in that way. “What has been remarkable, is that despite everything, a fair number of people have still come up with ideas,” she remarks. “Personally, I’m very interested in art, I never miss an exposition that could potentially influence fashion, or culture in general. However, with all those closures, we’ve had to rely on other ways of finding inspiration and ideas. Of course, online experiences are more present than ever before. Think cinema, improved TV shows, as well as social media with Instagram taking first place.”

Introspective work

Nevertheless, Prat points out a novelty at the core of the Parisian forecasting agency: “Right before quarantine, we organized a number of sessions, which were initially physical but then turned into digital versions, in which we analyzed our own consumption patterns,” she said. “Every individual had to talk about how he or she felt with respect to his or her own consumption habits. That gave us an indication of the wants and needs of every employee.” If this way of working came to be before quarantine, it thus provides a way of working and expressing oneself that is not unique to pandemic times. From now on, the language of Peclers Paris’ employees and its forecasting professionals will turn to introspective methods. “Usually, when we would have our meetings, we would talk about our customers or the things we had told them. Right now however, we talk about ourselves,” Prat says.

What an extraordinary situation triggers in people

Content is absorbed and developed according to the current moment in time. The head of fashion trends explains: “What’s fascinating about what we are going through, is what an extraordinary situation, like this one, triggers in people. Our current way of thinking when we pinpoint a theme is asking ourselves why we do it. For instance, we had a theme called ‘the praise of the shadow’. We came up with it thinking: it’s a strange situation, the streets are empty, there’s a weird and almost scary side to it. We will do something creative with that by giving it a more mysterious and scary side”.

Not surprisingly, Elisabeth confides that the trendbook for knitwear is more substantial as there is much more to say than before. She quotes trend forecaster Li Edelkoort, who says that knitwear plays a very important role in times of crisis. “It’s a reassurance, a cocoon, it’s very soft, it warms you up,” Prat adds.

In other words, knitwear is one of the biggest trends. But Elisabeth also tells us about new athleisure, fashion as a tool, new urban wardrobes and the idea of being ‘dressed up’. “At the agency, we wondered what it would be like to wear t-shirts and hoodies all day and then wear a garment with some ‘flair’,” she said. “I liked Demna Gvasalia’s approach, who experimented with that himself: by not dressing up anymore and by not wearing anything but shorts and jogging suits, he noticed that his morale dropped. When he dressed up again, it had an impact.”

Trend agency Peclers Paris appears to have kept its morale high in the face of difficulties brought about by the health measures. Just like the rest of the apparel sector, Peclers has adapted. But this does not necessarily mean that the situation can remain as it is. The physical aspect is very important when it comes to the business of a trend agency. Elisabeth mentions the work around colors as something that requires a tangible experience in particular. She adds: “Last week there was a fabric fair, Fabric Show. It was very interesting to be able to touch fabrics again. Sitting in front of a screen only allows you to engage with the visual aspect, but the tactile part of our profession is extremely important. Seeing fabrics again was a joy.”

Photo credit: Courtesy of Peclers Paris

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Womenswear SS22 color trends

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Womenswear SS22 color trends

Colour is key for consumers and SS22 saw fresh palettes that echoed the renewed sense of optimism happening amongst consumers. Soft eco influences, gender-fluid nostalgia and vibrant combinations bursting with positivity sought to reflect broader societal trends whilst still capturing the season’s playful mood.

Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a first look at the key womenswear colour inspirations emerging on the Spring Summer 2022 catwalks.

Dry Leaf

Dry Leaf sees vintage influences meeting eco outlooks. A beautiful, natural colourway, it illustrates the importance of colour transeasonality. An innovative, emerging yet simultaneously timeless shade of green, Dry Leaf speaks to consumer desire for longevity and versatility and encompasses both feminine and masculine traits. In its merging of seasons and notions of gender, the colour is indicative of the cultural and mindset shifts happening across global society.

Womenswear SS22 color trends

Boyhood Blues

Boyhood Blues, shades often worn by boys in childhood, offer a more playful interpretation on a classic tone, with a touch of nostalgia underpinning the palette. Adopting traditionally boyish tones for womenswear reflects the move towards gender-neutral dressing. As trends begin to move more slowly and transeasonality increases in importance, vibrant spring-like shades transcend the seasons and work equally well into Fall.

Womenswear SS22 color trends

Playful Optimism

A key colour grouping for SS22, playful Optimism with its heightened sense of colour expression reflects the sense of joy entering the market as consumers gain more positive outlooks for the future. Though hues are vivid there is still a high level of curation, intelligence and thoughtfulness put into colour combinations. Although the palette is fun, it is not frivolous, maintaining the artfulness of the designs.

Womenswear SS22 color trends

Exclusive Offer:

FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop’s Spring Summer 2021 Key Colour Directions Report. Simply click the banner to receive your free report.

Womenswear SS22 color trends

Trendstop.com is one of the world’s leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L’Oreal and MTV.

AUTHOR: AFP

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VF posts revenue and earnings growth, raises outlook

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Image: Supreme

Revenue at VF Corporation increased 23 percent or 21 percent in constant dollars to 3.2 billion dollars. Excluding the impact of acquisitions, the company said in a release, revenue increased 19 percent or 17 percent in constant dollars, driven by the EMEA and North American regions, which experienced a negative impact from Covid-19 in the prior year period.

VF’s wholesale business continues to be materially impacted by the timing of shipments due to port delays and logistics challenges.

“While the recovery has been impacted by further pandemic-related disruptions, we continue to see accelerating demand signals across our business, and our ability to reaffirm our fiscal 2022 revenue and earnings outlook is a clear testament to the resiliency and optionality of our model,” said Steve Rendle, VF’s chairman, president and CEO.

VF reports earnings growth in Q2

Gross margin for the quarter increased 290 basis points to 53.7 percent, and on an adjusted basis, gross margin increased 300 basis points, including a 20 basis point positive impact from acquisitions, to 53.9 percent.

Operating income on a reported basis was 558 million dollars and on an adjusted basis, operating income increased 56 percent or 53 percent in constant dollars to 534 million dollars, including an 8 million dollars contribution from acquisitions. Operating margin on a reported basis was 17.5 percent, while adjusted operating margin increased 360 basis points, including a 30 basis point negative impact from acquisitions, to 16.7 percent.

The company added that earnings per share were 1.18 dollars on a reported basis and on an adjusted basis, earnings per share increased 66 percent or 63 percent in constant dollars to 1.11 dollars, including a 2 cents contribution from acquisitions.

VF raises full year outlook, expects 30 percent revenue growth

VF added that for the full year revenue is expected to be approximately 12 billion dollars, reflecting growth of around 30 percent, including an approximate 600 million dollars contribution from the Supreme brand.

By segment, revenue for outdoor is now expected to increase between 25 percent and 27 percent versus the previous expectation of a 24 to 26 percent increase; revenue for active is now expected to increase between 35 percent and 37 percent versus the previous expectation of a 37 to 39 percent increase; revenue for work is now expected to increase between 19 and 21 percent versus the previous expectation of a 16 to 18 percent increase. International revenue is expected to increase between 24 percent and 26 percent.
By geographic region, in the EMEA region, revenue is expected to increase between 30 percent and 32 percent. In the Asia Pacific region, revenue is expected to increase between 12 percent and 14 percent. And, in the Americas (non-U.S.) region, revenue is expected to increase between 30 percent and 32 percent.

Direct-to-consumer revenue is now expected to increase between 34 percent and 36 percent versus the previous expectation of 39 percent and 41 percent, including Digital revenue growth of about 20 percent versus the previous expectation of 29 and 31 percent.

Adjusted gross margin is expected to be around 56 percent, which represents an estimated increase of around 270 basis points. Adjusted operating margin is expected to increase around 500 basis points to around 13 percent. VF further said that adjusted earnings per share is expected to be around 3.20 dollars, including an approximate 25 cents contribution from the Supreme brand.

VF’s board of directors declared a quarterly dividend of 50 cents per share, payable on December 20, 2021, to shareholders of record on December 10, 2021.

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Video: Sarah Nouri SS22 collection

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Video: Sarah Nouri SS22 collection

In this video, fashion label Sareh Nouri has presented its SS22
collection at New York Bridal Fashion Week (NYFW).

Watch the video below.

Do you want to see more clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace.

Video: VRAI Magazine via YouTube

Photo credit: VRAI Magazine, YouTube

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