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London label Goat rebrands as ‘Jane’ this May

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British independent womenswear brand Goat, founded by Jane Lewis in 2001, is rebranding as ‘Jane’ after selling its global trademark to 1661/Goat Group for an undisclosed sum.

The move follows a longstanding legal dispute, when Goat Fashion began a trademark infringement lawsuit against the sneaker and streetwear platform, 1661/Goat Group, who tried to sell apparel, and apparel accessories, under the Goat label.

“This re-brand is born out of a good resolution and comes from a position of strength,” founder and creative director, Jane Lewis told FashionUnited in a telephone interview. “We are very pleased to be re-branding and excited about this new chapter.”

Lewis noted that the resolution was reached amicably, and it was her decision to rebrand, “we have not been coerced or pressured into anything,” while adding that she was pleased that she stood up for her brand that she has built.

Lewis, added: “Becoming ‘Jane’ is very timely and a seamless transition actually, I’ve always been the creative director and all the design are by my hand, historically and currently. This company DNA is a direct reflection of my aesthetic, I see every piece through design to sampling.

“The rebranding feels like we’ve come full circle, a little bit like a refresh, a consolidation and affirmation of all the work I’ve put into my business. This will not be a radical rebrand of my clothing, there will be a continuation of the brand’s core DNA and handwriting. All that will change is the name.”

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courtesy of Jane

There was an excitement in her voice telling the news, after two decades, that the business will bear her own name. Even the branding design is the same, a hand-drawn font created when Goat was set up, and still belongs to her, now spells the word, Jane.

Lewis added that while the label will be called ‘Jane,’ it will also be referred to as Jane Atelier in the URL and on social media.

When Lewis launched as Goat, it was because her material of choice was cashmere, and while cashmere is still present in her collections there is much more focus on jersey in her upcoming collections.

“Truthfully, I was young and inexperienced,” said Lewis when discussing how she came up with Goat as her brand name at launch. “I’m not classically trained and this was my first foray into fashion and I didn’t feel confident to call it after my own name, but now after being in the business for 20 years, building a reputation and a company, I feel now is the time. I didn’t feel like I had earnt my stripes in the beginning, but I do now.”

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courtesy of Jane

Jane Lewis rebrands her label Goat as ‘Jane’

The first collection under the new ‘Jane’ branding will be for pre-autumn/winter 2021, a collection Lewis states “stays loyal to its subtle, stylish and discreet aesthetic” with references to the sixties and seventies that has always inspired the brand.

Sticking with the motto “less is more” the collection aims to offer women a “multifunctional and highly versatile capsule” filled with A-line dresses and skirts, pussy-bow blouses and statement collars, as well as high-waisted crop flares, tailored options and floral dresses.

Jersey also continues to be a strong part of the collection, whereas most brands over the past year have opted to use jersey for loungewear and athleisure, Lewis has opted for a more retro-inspired take, looking to how the material was used in the fifties and sixties to produce a capsule featuring flared high-waisted trousers with patch pockets, tailored blazers and a V-neck sleeveless pencil dress with a strong nod to Breakfast at Tiffany’s.

“Jersey is extremely versatile, while recently it has been used as casual wear, for us we treat the fabric in a more retro-inspired way, to offer a slightly more casual approach to try to address the 24-hour needs of our clients, without compromising our handwriting,” added Lewis.

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courtesy of Jane

During the pandemic, Lewis said the label has managed to trade “quite successfully,” while adding it hasn’t been without its challenges. The brand consolidated and reduced the breadth of its collection, so as not to have residual stock and adding what she calls “unnecessary risk”.

Success has also been driven by online, her direct-to-consumer channel has been used “effectively” especially when catering for its international clients alongside her wholesale stockists including Harrods and Matchesfashion, who Lewis also added have been “overwhelmingly in favour, and very sweet” regarding the rebrand.

“This is a happy evolution,” explained Lewis. “The name change opens up, I hope, other avenues within the business, such as collaborations and to expand into other areas that I may not have been able to do as easily as Goat.”

While Lewis has already previously done childrenswear, she said the next chapter could include collaborations with brands in categories such as sunglasses, home, fragrance and bags.

Lewis added: “I would like to collaborate with brands that I admire. I think two companies that come together with two different strengthens makes for a successful collaboration. I think there’s often collaboration for the sake of creating content, but it’s not really mindfully done.

“If I can bring my aesthetic to somebody else’s product that I can’t produce or couldn’t produce to the standard and the level that somebody else can that’s where I see the benefit. I wouldn’t make anything gratuitous just for the sake of, because that would go against my own principles. I don’t believe in design for design sake or collaboration for content sake.”

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Fashion

Womenswear SS22 color trends

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Womenswear SS22 color trends

Colour is key for consumers and SS22 saw fresh palettes that echoed the renewed sense of optimism happening amongst consumers. Soft eco influences, gender-fluid nostalgia and vibrant combinations bursting with positivity sought to reflect broader societal trends whilst still capturing the season’s playful mood.

Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a first look at the key womenswear colour inspirations emerging on the Spring Summer 2022 catwalks.

Dry Leaf

Dry Leaf sees vintage influences meeting eco outlooks. A beautiful, natural colourway, it illustrates the importance of colour transeasonality. An innovative, emerging yet simultaneously timeless shade of green, Dry Leaf speaks to consumer desire for longevity and versatility and encompasses both feminine and masculine traits. In its merging of seasons and notions of gender, the colour is indicative of the cultural and mindset shifts happening across global society.

Womenswear SS22 color trends

Boyhood Blues

Boyhood Blues, shades often worn by boys in childhood, offer a more playful interpretation on a classic tone, with a touch of nostalgia underpinning the palette. Adopting traditionally boyish tones for womenswear reflects the move towards gender-neutral dressing. As trends begin to move more slowly and transeasonality increases in importance, vibrant spring-like shades transcend the seasons and work equally well into Fall.

Womenswear SS22 color trends

Playful Optimism

A key colour grouping for SS22, playful Optimism with its heightened sense of colour expression reflects the sense of joy entering the market as consumers gain more positive outlooks for the future. Though hues are vivid there is still a high level of curation, intelligence and thoughtfulness put into colour combinations. Although the palette is fun, it is not frivolous, maintaining the artfulness of the designs.

Womenswear SS22 color trends

Exclusive Offer:

FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop’s Spring Summer 2021 Key Colour Directions Report. Simply click the banner to receive your free report.

Womenswear SS22 color trends

Trendstop.com is one of the world’s leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L’Oreal and MTV.

AUTHOR: AFP

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Video: Sarah Nouri SS22 collection

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Video: Sarah Nouri SS22 collection

In this video, fashion label Sareh Nouri has presented its SS22
collection at New York Bridal Fashion Week (NYFW).

Watch the video below.

Do you want to see more clothing collections? Click here to view the FashionUnited Marketplace.

Video: VRAI Magazine via YouTube

Photo credit: VRAI Magazine, YouTube

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Fashion

VF posts revenue and earnings growth, raises outlook

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Revenue at VF Corporation increased 23 percent or 21 percent in constant dollars to 3.2 billion dollars. Excluding the impact of acquisitions, the company said in a release, revenue increased 19 percent or 17 percent in constant dollars, driven by the EMEA and North American regions, which experienced a negative impact from Covid-19 in the prior year period.

VF’s wholesale business continues to be materially impacted by the timing of shipments due to port delays and logistics challenges.

“While the recovery has been impacted by further pandemic-related disruptions, we continue to see accelerating demand signals across our business, and our ability to reaffirm our fiscal 2022 revenue and earnings outlook is a clear testament to the resiliency and optionality of our model,” said Steve Rendle, VF’s chairman, president and CEO.

VF reports earnings growth in Q2

Gross margin for the quarter increased 290 basis points to 53.7 percent, and on an adjusted basis, gross margin increased 300 basis points, including a 20 basis point positive impact from acquisitions, to 53.9 percent.

Operating income on a reported basis was 558 million dollars and on an adjusted basis, operating income increased 56 percent or 53 percent in constant dollars to 534 million dollars, including an 8 million dollars contribution from acquisitions. Operating margin on a reported basis was 17.5 percent, while adjusted operating margin increased 360 basis points, including a 30 basis point negative impact from acquisitions, to 16.7 percent.

The company added that earnings per share were 1.18 dollars on a reported basis and on an adjusted basis, earnings per share increased 66 percent or 63 percent in constant dollars to 1.11 dollars, including a 2 cents contribution from acquisitions.

VF raises full year outlook, expects 30 percent revenue growth

VF added that for the full year revenue is expected to be approximately 12 billion dollars, reflecting growth of around 30 percent, including an approximate 600 million dollars contribution from the Supreme brand.

By segment, revenue for outdoor is now expected to increase between 25 percent and 27 percent versus the previous expectation of a 24 to 26 percent increase; revenue for active is now expected to increase between 35 percent and 37 percent versus the previous expectation of a 37 to 39 percent increase; revenue for work is now expected to increase between 19 and 21 percent versus the previous expectation of a 16 to 18 percent increase. International revenue is expected to increase between 24 percent and 26 percent.
By geographic region, in the EMEA region, revenue is expected to increase between 30 percent and 32 percent. In the Asia Pacific region, revenue is expected to increase between 12 percent and 14 percent. And, in the Americas (non-U.S.) region, revenue is expected to increase between 30 percent and 32 percent.

Direct-to-consumer revenue is now expected to increase between 34 percent and 36 percent versus the previous expectation of 39 percent and 41 percent, including Digital revenue growth of about 20 percent versus the previous expectation of 29 and 31 percent.

Adjusted gross margin is expected to be around 56 percent, which represents an estimated increase of around 270 basis points. Adjusted operating margin is expected to increase around 500 basis points to around 13 percent. VF further said that adjusted earnings per share is expected to be around 3.20 dollars, including an approximate 25 cents contribution from the Supreme brand.

VF’s board of directors declared a quarterly dividend of 50 cents per share, payable on December 20, 2021, to shareholders of record on December 10, 2021.

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